As we traveled south, the hills began to close
in on us, pushing us to the coast and the beaches and serving
up the occasional climb. For some reason I hadn't expected the
country to be so mountainous. It was here that the northeasterly
trade winds became apparent, at first showing up at the top of
the inclines, later blowing us down the road like crazy. And with
the hills came deep heavy jungle greenery, filled with amazing
growth and wonderful bird sounds; such a visual distraction that
made cycling up the hills enjoyable.
I rode with Jay most of the time, and there were
six or eight of us that liked to leave early (between 6 & 7 a.m.)
to beat the midday heat, and ride faster, because we like to ride
fast, I guess. Over time Jay and I learned that, even though it
was nice to ride with a larger group, it was safest and most efficient
to travel as a pair. We drafted each other when the conditions
allowed, and had more access to the locals when we stopped - larger
groups caused huge crowds and little chance of sitting in someone's
front porch for a snack, and a chat, and a drink. In fact, my
best run-ins with the Vietnamese were when I was riding like this,
ahead of everyone.
Hue, called the Emerald City, is a very beautiful and comfortable city, and the destination of choice for many residing foreigners. The Citadel is here, home of a notable battle in the Vietnam war and of the Forbidden City, where the rulers of old lived and frolicked with their concubines. We all came away with our own theories about why many of these leaders had died so young. It was here that Jay got sick and consequently missed a day of biking. I put him on a boiled potatoes and eggs diet that set him quickly back on track.
The South China
Sea was fantastic. In Nha Trang the waves were enormous, and although
exhausting and a bit dangerous, provided plenty of swimming entertainment.
Later as we rode from Phan Rang, on the coast, to Dalat, Vietnam's
honeymoon capital in the hills, we climbed 5,500 feet over 19
kilometers of jungle filled switchbacks. The views were spectacular.
At lunch in Dalat the bus drivers offered me a drink. It was a small glass of amber liquor, and since I had established a good rapport with the group, I trusted their judgment and respectfully accepted. After downing the substance with moderate poise, they pointed to a three gallon glass container full of dead snakes and an amber colored liquid. The worm in the bottle of mescal no longer impresses me.
The road from Dalat to Saigon was primarily downhill and downwind. We spent the next night in Bao Loc, known for its silkworm breeding, where I had my first glass ever of sugar cane juice. Potent stuff. We were treated to a fancy hotel. Usually the hotels had been nothing to look forward to. Showers were not always guaranteed, but rats in the rooms turned out to be something you could count on. However Rick, the organizer, explained that Cycle Vietnam has a frequent cycler program and that after 1000 miles you get a hotel upgrade. It was warmly welcomed; the first room that was designed without breeze holes, thereby allowing for a mosquito-net-free night. And there was a normal bathroom, whereby in most of the hotels, the architects had the unnerving habit of placing the bare and exposed electrical wiring and breaker for the water heater right next to the shower head.